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Skyline Track, Tongariro National Park, NZ

Updated: Jan 3, 2023

We visited Tongariro National Park in December of 2017 by driving down from Auckland. The drive took about 4.5 hours, one way.


Mt. Tongariro, Mt. Doom (Ngauruhoe) and Mt. Ruapehu

We arrived late in the day, almost 3 pm. We headed straight for the chairlifts at Iwikau Village and managed to catch a lift up to the Whakapapa Ski area. It is here that we hike up the Skyline Walk to the Pinnacle Ridge, which consists of distinctive rock pillars overlooking the entire Tongariro National Park. The views from the chairlift ride was spectacular. We could see Mt. Doom and Mt. Tongariro in the distance, with Mt. Doom partially hidden cloaked in clouds.



It didn't take long before we arrived at the end of the lift line, where Whakapapa Ski area and Knoll Ridge Chalet is situated. There is also a restaurant here aptly named Nga Tohu The Pinnacles; where diners would get a first class view of these rock pillars. From here Mt. Ruapehu comes into view, looming large in the background of the ski facilities, beckoning to be summited. The direct translation of the Maori name place of Ruapehu is rua meaning two and pehu meaning to explode or to make a loud noise. Although imperfect, it would seem that the description is fitting for a stratovolcano, that explodes once every fifty years.


With the Knoll Ridge buildings in view, Mt. Ruapehu looms in the background

We got off the chairlift and headed towards the Skyline trailhead. The trail is basically marked with poles and sticks and one is basically walking on lose lava rocks, clinkers and scree.



When it rains heavily, the water mixes with the lose soil to create a mix called lahar. At times, this deadly mud flow of lava rocks would race downhill over foothill villages and cause massive destruction.

Walking on such rocks are very tiring to the feet, and for every 3 steps upwards, one seems to lose one step backward.


We made our way to the exposed ridge, passing many patches of leftover ice; waiting to melt. Even in the summer time, the air is quite cold especially when the wind is whipping from over the top. The trickling sound of the melting ice added a touch of relaxation and a quieting of the mind.


The Pinnacles come into view as we crest the ridge

When we finally crest over the ridge, the view was expansive to as far as we could see. We spotted the Pinnacles, the entire swath of the park with Mt. Doom and Mt. Tongariro, and the cloud covered Mt. Ruapehu.


On Pinnacle Ridge with Heuheu and Tukino peaks in the background

It is here that the Skyline track ends and it is marked by an 'End Of Trail' marker.

We followed the ridge back down towards the rocky pillars and climbed up to the edge of the ridge for a better look.


Pinnacle Ridge

The 3 Pinnacles

Here, framed by the stalwart pinnacles is a view towards Tongariro, Ngauruhoe (Mount Doom) and the world-renowned Tongariro Alpine Crossing track. This is part of the southernmost section of the Taupo Volcanic Zone and is considered highly active. These rocks off the face of Ruapehu are called andesite pillars and are a favorite mountaineering climb to the top of each. The pillars may look brittle and crumbly, but they are actually sound for climbing; being composed of extrusive igneous volcanic rock.

After we savored the moment, albeit short as as the sun was setting, we made our way back down to the restaurant for a quick bite and drink since we didn't have anything from the start of our journey. The view of the Pinnacle Ridge from the restaurant was exquisite.



As we drove down the mountain feeling re-energised after a good post hike meal, we stopped and took a final glimpse of Mt. Ruapehu before making our long drive back to Auckland. We told ourselves that we will have to come back here again for more.



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