Eylenda: Of Hraun, Jokull & Foss

This is our first time visiting the fabled land of the Vikings and Celts. It's unique geography is the result of the interplay between lava and glaciers. In 2023 alone, Iceland saw over 2.2 million international visitors; which is not a bad number judging from the fact that Iceland is located in the Arctic Circle. At the center of Reykjavik is the iconic Hallgrimskirja Church, with its unique architecture that resembles the columnar basalt, or pipe-organs that are formed naturally by lava flows. Outside the church is a statue of Leif Erikson, the first Norse explorer known to have set foot on continental America, way before Christopher Columbus did. In short, the Norse people must have been excellent seafarers, like the Polynesians who discovered the Hawaiian archipelago.

Day 1 - Flight from Kailua-Kona to SeaTac to Keflavik, Iceland

The first segment of our flight was serviced by Alaska Air on a 737-800 to Seattle. The flight was a full flight with passengers heading to or connecting through Seattle.

The flight itself was smooth and uneventful. We had a preordered breakfast of omelette, sausage, fruit and yogurt.

It certainly was a fast flight as we arrived under 5 hours. Once in SeaTac we had to take several trains underground from the North Concourse to the South Concourse. It too was smooth and fast. The S terminal was pretty busy with people from all walks of life. We could hear many languages and even the announcements were in German for a Condor flight to Frankfurt.

Our flight to Reykjavik was with Icelandair's A321Neo. It was interesting that this time we were flying two airlines that are new to us. So far so good. This segment of our flight went quite smoothly as well, with a deliciously prepared meal. The seats were comfortable, and in general, the aircraft's interior was new and well stocked. The crew was very personable and attentive. We would definitely fly Icelandair again!

As we approached Iceland, we were welcomed with an amazing sunrise over the clouds. We landed at Keflavik slightly ahead of schedule and cleared custom in a breeze. We were anticipating a cloudy and stormy weather upon arrival but instead we were greeted with a calm sunny day and we made sure we used this opportunity to our fullest extent. We picked up our rental vehicle; which is a Toyota Land Cruiser outfitted with a snorkel and wide all terrain tires to tackle the backcountry roads here.

Our main objective of the day was to reach Kerlingarfjoll Highland Base Camp before nightfall. Before heading out, we made a stop at a local supermarket called Krono. Here we stocked up on water, snacks and light instant icelandic soup(!) We then made our way to Reykjavik for lunch. To kill some time we took a drive to the edge of town at a pier opposite the town center. Here there was an art installation called Þúfa (pronounced "Thúfa"). It is about 26 feet high and is traditionally a place to dry fish.

We then made a stop for pho or as they call it in Iceland, hrísgrjónanúðlum. We asked the server to pronounce it for us, but we just couldn't get it(!) Although run by Vietnamese, the taste has been subdued probably to serve the more European taste bud.

The drive from Revkjavik to the high camp was very smooth (for a 4WD road!) and scenic. We even stopped at a very popular (and crowded) waterfall, Gullfoss; which was also the filming location for the blockbuster movie called Prometheus.

I can see why Iceland is reconsidering the idea of mass-tourism after having had a tourism boom in the last 15 years straight. The fall itself is very impressive. It was in fact originally intended for a hydroelectric plant. However, a farmer's daughter Sigríður Tómasdóttir, successfully fought for the falls' preservation, and in 1979, Gullfoss was designated a nature reserve, securing its future as a protected natural phenomenon. This earned her the title of Iceland's first environmentalist. Today, there are signs along the pathway to the falls commemorating her victory.

Opposite Gullfoss, we could see Langjokull Glacier in the distance. In front of it were the Jarlhettur Mountains, which are a palagonitic mountain range formed under a glacier during the last Ice Age. There are many prominent peaks on this eastern side including Skríðufell, Fjallkirkja, Þursaborg, and Péturshorn.

As we rolled into the high camp, we were told that the weather will change abruptly by early tomorrow and if we wanted to do some hiking, we ought to do it now. So off we went.

This hike is all about the scenery and the experience of being surrounded by volcanic steam vents and active springs. Hveradalir is an active geothermal location within Kerlingarfjoll.

Fannborg Mountain

It certainly did not disappoint even though most of the trail was walking on squishy volcanic clay/mud from the heavy rains in the past couple of days. The majestic views and the feeling of the warmth from the steam made up for the muddy encounter. With daylight waning fast, we made every second count. This is one place we will definitely come back to for more hiking. See our hike video here.

We had a simple dinner after settling in nicely into our mountain room overlooking the valley. The wind picked up, but before that, we made a quick check of the surrounding night sky for some Northern Lights sighting. My Aurora app stated that there was a good probability of seeing one before the break of dawn. The air outside was bone-chilling cold at this point, made worse by the blustery wind. Clouds were moving in also, but we were sure we did see something in the night sky- a glow of some sort - and the source of it wasn't the moon as it was still below the horizon where we were at that moment. We got back indoors just as fast as we got out. The frigid air was just too much for our senses even with 3-4 layers of clothing! Frost was forming under our feet! The good thing was that our lodgings were very comfortable and warm.

We decided its best for bedtime since we were up for over 24-hour after we left Kailua-Kona. We were awakened a few times into our deep slumber as the ferocious Icelandic wind pounded our window. Ah, this sets our expectations for the following days to come while we negotiate the harsh weather and the difficult terrain that lies ahead.

Day 2 - Bad Weather & Rest Day

The day continued with consistent rain throughout, and with winds blustering in the morning. We slept in a bit and then went to the dining room for breakfast (which is included with our booking). Breakfast was the usual buffet spread of cereals, oats, eggs, bacon, cold cuts, cheese and breads. We also had orange juice to accompany our meal.

We then walked around the facility to view the lounge, baths and general grounds from the inside. This is a well built facility with thoughtful touches throughout. The style is minimalistic and the service was just wonderful. This place is actually an upgrade and relaunch of what used to be called the Kerlingarfjoll Mountain Resort. Today it is known as the Highland BaseCamp at Kerlingarfjoll. This place has accommodations from individual suites to open grounds to pitch your tents. Below are a few stock pictures from the hotel along with a map of the grounds taken from the wall just outside the Guest Check-in area.

We stayed in the hotel section; which made it very comfortable for us. Here are a few more pictures of the area from the dining and lounge windows.

We spent the morning reading and catching up on our blog; as it was still raining outside. We could see others braving the weather as they donned waterproof clothing and boots; heading out in the wind and rain. Soon it was time for lunch, but we weren't very hungry so we decided to try our made in Iceland soups! They were easy to make with just hot water and 10 - 12 minutes - voila! They were quite scrumptious...

Having been couped up for all morning we decided to brave the weather and took a drive out to the Kies Parking lot. This location has two hiking trailheads to reach the high peaks of Kerlingarfjoll (FANNBORG, VESTURGNÝPA, SNÆKOLLUR, SNÓT AND LOÐMUNDUR). The drive up the mountain was definitely different from the day before, with much more water on the road and greater sliding from the mud. Soon we arrived at Kastali House; an old skiing hut for the winter to access the slopes of Fannborg. Inside the house it was adorned with old skis and pictures from long bygone adventures. There was also a collection of andesite rocks collected from around the mountains here. Nonetheless, it was clean and dry, versus the wet fog and rain with sideways wind outside.

When we got back to basecamp we could see that the water levels of the river had risen. We drove down to the weir as the water had gathered up tp the top and was now spilling over. Thankfully, it still wasn't enough to flood the area; at least for now.

We closed out the day with a great evening meal from the dining room. We had a Beetroot Salad, a Hamburger with Fries, and the Lamb Shoulder and Flank. It was a perfect way to end a dreary day!

Day 3 - Driving from Kerlingarfjoll to Vik

We started our journey to Vik after a hearty breakfast at the lodge restaurant. The weather was bleak, with more rain and wind to dampen the spirit. But we forge on with hopes that we might get a break of clear weather once we reached Vik, a coastal town geared for outdoor adventure. Check out the drive video here.

On the way, we briefly stopped at Seljalandsfoss for some photo opt. The park was busy with many tourists. The drive on this section of the Ring Road did not disappoint. We marveled at the rugged cliffs and mountains, punctuated with cascading waterfalls. There was even a waterfall that looked like it was flowing against gravity as the blustery North Atlantic winds blew the water upwards and sideways. After checking into our accommodation at Vik, we decided to hike up a nearby mountain with sheer cliffs overlooking the town and the black sand beaches below.

For a brief moment, the rain stopped as we made our way up to the top of the cliff. The views up here was out of this world! We even encountered many seabirds nesting on the edges of the cliff. As we approached the tip of the cliff, we could see the other side of the black sand beaches, with many tourists meandering around the beach to view the famous Reynisdrangar, which consists of several column sea stacks that are said to be trolls that did not return before sundown; thus turning into stone. There are also the Hálsanefshellir cave and the Reynisdranger cliffs made of hexagonal columns.

The Famous Black Sand Beach At Vik

This gorgeous but windy hike took us about an hour and 50 minutes to complete.

At the end of the day we decided to try an Asian concept restaurant run by locals(!) It is called Wok in Vik. There was a long line of tourists crammed into the small restaurant. It was curious to see the number of Asian tourists in this store where all the cooks were locals. When we tried their Beef Special and the Queen Lamb, it was pretty good. Hence, how crowded it was. We're definitely eating here again.

Day 4 - Driving from Vik To Hofn

Today was yet another rainy day. So we decided to take a drive from Vik to Hofn, or more specifically to Vestrahorn at the far eastern edge of Hofn. This would normally be about 3 hours and 23 minutes according to Google Maps for a straight drive, but for us it will be an all day trip as we stopped at several places along the way.

There were many miles on Highway 1 that were simply an undulating 2 lane country road. From Vik, we passed the impressive area of Kirkjubæjarklaustur with its impressive waterfalls, rivers and gorges. We drove through the mossy green and barren black sand lava fields. And finally made our way to the many glaciers of Vatnajökull. We stopped at the end, in Hofn to have a late lunch before our turnaround spot at Vestrahorn.

One thing of note is that this route is incredible touristy. They were every where and in droves. Its amazing as this is not even the peak season. Further, all the natural sights come with parking fees, so one has to be prepared or you will face a steep fine (charged via the car rental company). For us, one of the stops along the drive was a side 4WD to the base of Virkisjokull and our climb up its toe to see the top. There were many tourists here too, but we managed to squeeze in between the groups.

There is also a memorial for the brothers of Hali off Highway 1. It was erected in 1992. The memorial features a nine ton gabbro stone that is sliced into three pieces showcasing their inner beauty. One can also follow the history of the brothers by walking westward along the fence towards the highway to find posts with stories of each landmark and a letter. Collect each letter and it will provide the nameplace of the brothers. It is a nice monument that stood out against the rain.

Another interesting stop was at Fjallsjokull. Here the wind was incredible strong and the rain sideways. But we braved it to climb up the berm at the base of the glacial lake, to see the edge of the glacier and the floating icebergs. This truly was a sight to see.

Before we headed back, we stopped at a little diner near the wharf. We had a very fresh hamburger with fries and the customary Fish and Chips. So far the food in Iceland has been pretty fresh and the meats taste very different from that in the USA.

It was, in the end a pretty long day; with our getting back to Vik at about just past 8pm. The return was nice as the skies cleared a little and we finally saw some clear twilight skies!

Here is the video of the drive.

Day 5 - Super Jeep To Ice Cave and Black Sands

We rested well and decided to hire a guide to visit an ice cave and the surrounding area. We got picked up in a Jeep Rubicon outfitted for off-roading, with extra wide tires, and an auto-tire-inflate-deflate system without having to stop the vehicle (nice!)

With a local guide, one can learn a lot about the local lore, mix with actual historical facts that took place along the trip. Here is the video of the trip.

The guide informed us that the glacier had retreated by a lot. In fact, in the near future, they have to reposition many of the wooden walkway planks due to the ice melting and shifting. The earth is getting warmer and the facts are self evident. Below is the track of our drive and some of what we saw along the way.

After getting back, we decided to check out the famous Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach and the hexagonal columns.

The place was packed with people. Not just at the cave but also along the black sand beach. Since we were doing the tourist thing, we decided to visit the famous Vik church on the hill over the town. This is yet another tourist spot, but when we arrived at the top of the hill above the church it started to rain heavily and all the tourists left(!) We stayed a bit and soon enough it stopped raining and we had the hill to ourselves with the sunset. So, we managed to capture this photo of the church against Reynisfjall and Reynisdrangar.

Having had enough of the tourist sights we were then looking for a place to eat. Towards the older side of town, we found a quaint café. We order the Lamb Fillet and a Lamb sandwich for dinner. The meal was delicious!!!!

After resting for a bit, I got an alert from my Aurora app that there would be a good chance of sighting, provided that there is a break in the clouds, and indeed a sighting did appear! It was beautiful. We have been waiting for this moment for the past days since we arrived. Now, we got to view the Northern Lights in full splendor.

It appeared as if the ribbon of colors are dancing in a rhythmic fashion. The collision of charged particles from the sun with our atmosphere had crested these wonderful array of colors - green/red with oxygen molecules, blue and purple with hydrogen and helium. It was a mesmerizing experience first hand. As sudden as it appears, it too disappeared on a whim. Luck was on our side tonight.

Day 6 - Back To Reyjkvik

We checked out and drove back to Reykjavik just before noon. We stopped at Selfoss for a quick bite in a Indian fusion restaurant on the main high street. The food was very tasty.

Selfoss seems to be a growing city. There were lots of new construction and one could see that it has thrived due to its tourism boom. We visited the New Old Town of Selfoss; which is a recreation of several old buildings from the turn of the 1900s. It reminded me of a typical European town square and shops.

After our hearty meal, we went to check out a cave and a lava tube system. The Arnarker cave is located just out outside Reykjavik. It has over 510 meters of underground tube to explore, but since we were not prepared for caving we'd have to come back at some other time to do this. One thing for sure was that since this is off the beaten path we had the cave all to ourselves!

The Arnarker Cave

We arrived at our final last 3 days vacation rental in Gardabaer just before dusk and settled in quickly. This place is a converted garage into a one bedroom with loft. It is a bit of a squeeze in the bedroom and bathroom, but the kitchen, living and dining areas are pretty big. The one downside is that the loft hangs low. So for us the roof is just at head level - which means a couple of bumps on the head before you finally get used to ducking it. We had to hang stuff on the edge so that we would see it to avoid it!

After settling in we decided to drive back up to Reykjavik to see what we could pick up for dinner and to catch a night shot if possible. Reykjavik doesn't really have a city skyline, so we would have to find its best angle at night. So after picking up and having our dinner from Viet Noodles, we drove to Grotta where the Norðurpóllin Leikhús (lighthouse) resides. This spot is also called the Northern Lights view point because it is the darkest spot within the Reykjavik city limits. There were certainly a lot of folks out here as nature put on its light show. It wasn't as defined as it was in Vik.

To complete our day we had to look for a night shot of Reykjavik. So we went hunting for it along the famous Skólavörðustígur (main street of Reykjavik) towards the famous church, Hallgrimskirkja. Since it was already past 10pm, there weren't as many people in the streets. Hence, we took advantage to capture a shot from the middle of the street. Truly iconic for Reykjavik and a great way to end the day.

Day 7 - Exploring the Reykjanes Peninsular

This is our first full day in the Reykjavik area. So we decided to visit an off the beaten track non-tourist restaurant for lunch. It was located in the suburban area of Efra-Breiðholt. This location had a number of short apartment buildings, a school, and community center. It was interesting to see how the locals went about their day on a Saturday early afternoon. The restaurant that we visited was called Viethouse. When we arrived there were three tables with patrons. Two were singles and the third was a table with two generations of family and friends. All were either watching football on the telly, playing poker or reading. This was the local hangout for a Saturday afternoon!

The food itself was somewhat different from the Pho we normally get in Hawaii. But it was still good; though the coffee was a little too sweet.

Having had our lunch we then made our way south of Reykjavik to explore the Reykjanes Peninsula, before heading on to Grindavik. We did not stop at the Blue Pools as we didn't really want to go for a dip with a whole bunch of tourists! Instead we drove down to the Reykjanes lighthouse, and to see the Valahnúkamöl (sea stacks off the peninsula). Apparently this is also a film location for Volcano Man (starring Will Ferrell). Next to this area is the lesser known Gunnuhver Volcano and its hot springs. This area is actively mined for Geothermal and it too has its own "blue pool" (run-off from the geothermal activity). Thankfully, there weren't as many tourists here, but there was the tourist parking to pay.

We then headed east towards Grindavik. It was sad to see that this town has literally become a ghost town. This is because it is in the flow line of the Sundhnúkur crater row; which has erupted nine times since December 2023 (the last being just in August 2025). South east of Grindavik is an open area by the sea known for its shipwrecks. There have been more than 26 recorded wrecks or which 3 are visible on shore. It is also the location of the converted water tower (strange house built on top of a water tower), the Hópsnes Lighthouse and the abandoned fishing village called Þórkötlustaðahverfi. It is also the place where a local outfitter takes tourists out on ATVs.

To make our way back to Reykjavik, we decided to drive the 428 Road or Vigdísavallavegur. This is a 4WD road that traverses through the Bláfjöll mountain range. There are several hiking trails along this road but most notably are the ones to the Sisters (Trölladyngja and Grænadyngja) behind Djupavatn Lake. This is not one of the famous F roads, but it is a restricted 4x4 only vehicle access road. It certainly is not technically difficult but it does have some of the iconic Icelandic view of volcanoes and basins. Here is a quick view of some parts of the drive to the lake.

Having had a good full day of adventure, we returned to Reykjavik to see if we could find some Indian food. To our surprise there were many to choose from. We decided on one that was again in the suburbs and it had an Icelandic name, Hraðlestin. It is a family run chain of 4 restaurants with 4 Indian chefs. Their ingredients are imported from India and they have been serving since 2003. See their history here. We tried their Rogan Josh, Karwar, and Garlic Naan. All were very tasty and a great way to end another great day.

Day 8 - Driving North to Snæfellsnes

This was our last full day on this beautiful yet cold island in the North Atlantic. Our drive to the Snæfells peninsula took us through many beautiful waterfalls, charming towns and incredible jaw dropping landscapes. Here are some photo of this incredible remote part of the island.

We would have driven through Snæfellsjökull volcano, via F574 but it was not to be as it was raining and totally socked in with clouds. It would have been nice to see the snow capped volcano but not today. Instead we took Útnesvegur around the base of the volcano and through the Snæfellsjökull National Park. Here is the video for the drive.

When we left Reykjavik, it was pouring cats and dogs! I could not see anything but the road... Thankfully by the time we arrived at Kirkjufell the skies started to clear. In fact, as the clouds parted nature provided many rainbow views.

Down by Kirkjufellsfoss, there were many tourists. We parked along the road and hiked up to the falls. There was a good amount of water, but the bridge at the top was closed, so we could not get to the opposite side to take the foss+fells shot(!) We just has to settle with the two separate shots.

Today was also the day for us to try food that you can only get in Iceland. So, for breakfast/lunch we had to try the famous lamb hot dogs from downtown Reykjavik. These were just OK. It didn't really taste any different from other hot dogs...

Then for dinner we had to try this drive through spot called Akto Taktu. Its generally a hamburger place with fries and soda. It too wasn't very impressive. Just regular.

I think these were the most disappointing of Icelandic foods, as all the others we had tried earlier were really fresh and good. Lastly, we tried an Espresso Shake from Ísbúðin. This was real espresso with a wholesome chocolate shake. Now this is something that stood out. Wouldn't mind having another.

To end the day, we drove out to the very small neighborhood of Blikastigur. Here the light house sits in the last house's backyard! I guess as the consolation these houses have access to a great view of Reykjavik across the waters. Little did we know that this area also houses the Bessastaðakirkja (a church) at the front, and Bessastaðir (Iceland President's official state home) at the back.

As we drove along the beach side facing the city, we managed to catch the view of Hallgrimskirkja standing high above the city and standing out against the skyline. There isn't much of a skyline as all the buildings are low. Nonetheless, it made for a good shot that is easily discernable as Reykjavik because of the church.

Day 9 - Last Look at Reykjavík & Flight to Vancouver

So we had the day before our flight to Vancouver in the late afternoon. The rain had just stopped as the cloud started to clear. It was an easy pack and check out as we made our way downtown. There didn’t seem to be as many people around for a Monday morning. So we drove around the tight streets; finally making our way to a small pho place in a food market called Halló xin chào. It had just opened so we were the first customers.

We ordered the customary Pho Bo and Chicken Banh Mi. The pho was ok but the Banh Mi was delicious! Just the right crispy flaky yet soft in the middle bread with a good serving of fresh and pickled vegetables; against a very tasty chicken. Now this restaurant is located in a public pedestrian area called Helmur. There are some really interesting buildings here too.

Having had our fill, we drove to Perlan and visited the nearby graveyard on Perlman’s hill. Here fall was in full showing.

Then it started to hail/rain. Because of the quick shift from a very cold morning to partly cloudy skies, there was a certain chill in the air. This made for the exact conditions for hail. It wasn’t very big hail but rather a bit of sleet.

We then swung by Reykjavík University which sits right next to the domestics airport in Reykjavik. There were a lot of student housing and they were still building more.

As it was time to make our way to the airport, we stopped at the local Costco to fill up on diesel. We then of course had to stop in to try the famous Costco Gelato of three scoops in a cup for 600kr. It was pretty good. Very creamy.

After dropping off our car at MyCar; the only thing the agent had to say was, “Wow, you covered a lot of distance in a pretty short time!” Indeed!

We checked in and made our way to the saga lounge. It was quite well laid out and not too busy. The food was ok. Nothing beats the Delta Lounge at SeaTac this far.

As we prepared to wind down our Iceland trip we reflected on what we observed and learnt in Iceland:

1. Most surprisingly, the food of all kinds were pretty good here in Iceland. I guess we had pretty low expectations, so it turned out to be really good. We tried Icelandic, Vietnamese, Indian, and Asian Fusion food. From street diners to luxury dining. All of it was pretty fresh and the meats really tender and tastefully created. Just skip the fast food.

2. We drove all over the city and through the country and we did not see anything that looked anything close to homelessness or poverty. The places were all very clean with no roadside trash either. There was the occasional graffiti - but I think those were there more like as art than anything else. Interestingly, we also noticed that plastic bottle caps remained attached to its bottle - thus eliminating plastic cap waste(!)

3. The country is very well connected. Mobile phone connectivity was excellent and internet access was at every town. It was only on some of the most remote F roads that there was no connectivity. But even at Kerlingarfjall the internet was very reliable and cell connectivity at 5G or LTE. As we drove around some of the more remote places we could see cell towers along the roadside at every few miles.

4. There is no need for cash here. Everything is credit card based and because there is a service charge there is no need to tip. Even the most remote Mom & Pop store had internet and credit card processing.

5. When paying with a credit card always pay in Icelandic Krona. The rate that your credit card provides is much better than that of the translated cost at the point of sale.

6. Even in this off peak season, there were still a lot of tourists all over the place. If you can avoid the Golden Circle or even the south coast roads between Vik and Hofn, you should. The next time we visit it would be totally off the beaten path.

7. Everyone speaks English - though it is good to know a few words like Thanks You or Yes or No. But don't fret as English is the second language of Iceland.

8. Driving is easy as it is the same as in the USA. Having said that, there are a lot of round-a-bouts and they are not the same as the ones in the USA. The right of way is to the folks in the circle and folks do go pretty fast around them. Just remember to signal when getting out of the circle.

9. Off-roading is the norm for those who live in Iceland. There are some pretty good innovations around 4WD tires and the ability to auto inflate and deflate the tires without stopping. There are more Toyota Land Cruisers than there are Jeeps - but they are all called "Super Jeeps".

10. Iceland is expensive. Meals here are on average USD$25 to $35 per person. Even groceries can be expensive too. Gas is expensive here and more so outside of Reykjavik. If you have a Costco Membership - fill at the gas pump there as the cost is almost half. Note that you don't have to buy bottled water as the water here is pretty clean.

In all, we had a great trip. It was nice to see the country in person as the many pictures do not tell the full story. We got to do the things we set out to do - see Kerlingarfjall's beautiful colors, walk on a glacier, visit an ice cave, see the Iceland horses, and climb the Reynisfjall cliffs. The only thing we did not get to see were the Puffins(!) There is a famous local saying "Þetta Reddast", which translates to "It will work out alright." The weather might not co-operate, the food might not be what you expected it to be, and you might have a hard time with the language. But rest assured, it's a beautiful country! So we bid Iceland, a hui hou! Till we meet again next time.