One of the many imposing towering peaks along the Cascade Range of the Pacific Northwest is Mount Rainier, or Tahoma, as the First Nations people called it. Some of these fourteeners make up the 700-mile volcanic arc, starting from Silverthorne Caldera in British Columbia and down to Lassen Peak in Northern California.
From the peak of Mount Rainier, one has a clear view of Mount Baker to it's north, Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams, Mount Hood and Mount Jeffersons to it's south flank; all lined up in a perfect linear relationship, suggesting that they were all formed from the same volcanism.
This offshore subduction zone is part of the Pacific Ring of Fire, where the Juan De Fuca, Explorer, and Gorda Plates are driving below the North American Plate. These enormous forces created many of these stratovolcanoes, some more prominent than others, and many were eroded away through time. In fact, many of the peaks you see today are relatively young (only about a 100,000 years old) compared to the age of the arc which dates back to 37 million years ago.
There are several entrances to the Mount Rainier National Park. We decided to frequent the more common entrances this time around; since it was our first visit to this park. Of the five entrances, Paradise and Sunrise are the most visited. It is here that one gets immediate and majestic views of Mount Rainier right from the road(!) The National Park Service does a good job in maintaining the public ways and visitor centers. It is just amazing that it accommodates on average more than 2 million visitors each year. We drove to Paradise first, and upon arrival, there were a lot of people! We had previously watched YouTube videos of folks lining up to get into the park, and for us it was no different.
Beyond the entrance was a leisurely drive along Paradise Road. It was mostly wooded with both old and new growth. It should have been cool, but Washington was experiencing a major heatwave, so much so that even here it was over a hundred degrees!
Once at the Henry M. Jackson Visitor Center, there is a huge parking lot. It was so filled with visitors that we had to park further down along Paradise Road. At this location, there were several quaint buildings with high pitched roofs, typical for a location that has over thirty foot snow drifts. The visitor center was still closed, but the inn was at least taking in day guests.
We quickly donned our hiking gear and headed for the Skyline Trail. Since there were many folks in the still snow covered meadows, we decided to do an anti-clockwise loop. Also, we discovered that much of the lower Skyline Trail was obscured by snow with no markings. Hence, we cut up via Golden Gate View trail instead.
The trek through the snow was steep at Golden Gate. We did not follow the switchback trail, since most if not all of it was covered with snow. It was instead a straight snow climb to the top. We were so tired that we forgot to take a picture of the falls, and envied the hikers who slid down the slope on their clockwise return.
Once we gained the ridge, we found the Higher Skyline Trial. It was relatively visible as we followed it between snow covered sections. Although we had Chainsen micro-spikes and hiking poles, it took a bit to navigate through the snow fields. There were several sections with limited sight, such that one had to be careful to not navigate off a snow cliff or fall through to underground temporary streams caused by the snowmelt.
From open meadows, to scree and volcanic dust, the Higher Skyline Trail is varied, and in these conditions, just challenging enough to keep one moving forward with the expansive views of the Tatoosh Ridge.
Although the temperature was up in the 90s, there was a cool breeze that kept us going. Further, the ice/snow below foot, felt like air conditioning when the breeze picked up.
After the steady uphill climb we topped off and crested at about 7000' just below McClure Rock (7359'). From here we had the expansive view of Mount Rainier with the Nisqually Glacier taking full front. We could see hikers on the Muir Ice Field, like ants making their way to/from Muir Camp.
On the opposite side, we could see the North Cascades rolling south with Mount Adams peaking beyond the Tatoosh Ridge in the south.
From here the Skyline Trail looped back towards the starting point, and we started to meet more hikers along the way. It was a good choice to do this anti-clockwise as it was peaceful having the trail to ourselves.
We even managed to sneak up on a Marmot that was sunning itself on a big rock! What a spot to pick. We often wonder if the animals stop to savor the views as well...?
And of course, on our way back to the parking lot, we had to do some glissading! Not to say that we were prepared. And the slushy snow was cold! Click here for the video of this hike.
Having experienced Paradise, we then decided a few days later, to hike to the Mount Fremont Fire Lookout on the Sunrise side of Mount Rainier. By then, the heatwave had passed and as much as two and a half feet of snow/ice had melted off Mount Rainier. Little did we know how different the mountain is without the snow.
Our drive to Sunrise took us to a more back woods route along small farm roads and national forests. Just before the national park, we stopped at Skookum Falls. We could see that Washington was truly in a drought. This fall is normally gushing at this time of year, so much so for its namesake in Chinook American Indian - "skookum" meaning strong, brave, and impressive. The flow today was certainly not skookum-ish, but decent enough to be captured. The banks of the White River below were covered with silt, as a result of the glaciers' grinding of stone into a white dust now carried by the glacier water runoff.
As we approached the national park, we were again greeted by the customary long line wait to pay the USD$30 entry fee. Once paid, the drive up to Sunrise is a rolling and winding road through pine trees but most notably some interesting volcanic geology. You can even take a geology tour created by NPS - https://www.nps.gov/mora/learn/nature/sunrise-geology.htm
For us the drive itself was beautiful, especially as the road ascended beyond the tree line and opened to the expansive view of the northeast face of Mount Rainier.
It is hard to imagine that just a week or so ago, this place was closed because of snow. Now it was hot and totally thawed out. There was hardly any snow... so much so that we really didn't need any micro spikes at all. Although the meadows were green, there were no signs of deer or moose. Just a few chipmunks scampering about stuffing their cheeks!
Right from the parking lot, the views were already amazing. One does not need to even get on a trail to see the amazing surroundings. It is truly built for anyone and everyone of any skill level to enjoy.
The lot at Sunrise was not full, but there were still a lot of people. The one unfortunate thing about these two locations is the drone of human voices piercing the natural silence. This location certainly does not come with natures' sounds - but rather it was full of human voices and chatter! For that reason, this hike is probably the first and the last time we'd do it...
So we started our hike up hill, powering past the many casual hikers along the way.
Soon the trail crested to join the Sourdough Ridge Trail. From here there were a series of three small hills separated by saddles which afforded views over the Huckleberry Creek Trail. At the first stop, there is an impressive view of McNealy Peak; standing about 6719' high. It is an unmistakable pyramid like peak standing out against the meadows.
Soon the trail contoured Sourdough Ridge to Frozen Lake. This section is fairly level with two boulder fields to cross. Without much snow, these sections were easy. The views along the way were of Mount Rainier, with clear sight of Little Tahoma, Emmons Glacier and the surrounding hills.
Once at the lake, the trail splits to Burrough on the left, and Fremont Lookout on the right. We took the up hill section to the fire lookout. This started a steady climb for about 1.7 miles to the lookout. The park rates this trail as strenuous.
As we hike uphill, the views of the meadows below are more than inviting. We can also see Skyscraper mountain across from us, framed by Mount Rainier in the background. This time Rainier was obscured by clouds!
The last section approaching the lookout is filled with "clinkers"; called as such because of the unmistakable clinking sound when stepped on. There is no shade from this point on, and we were again having incredibly warm temperatures in the 90s.
Once at the lookout, we could see far into the north of the North Cascades. The immediate surrounding forest, meadows, and lakes were beautiful. One can only imagine what it must have been like when the lookout was first built. Remote and alone, fire watchers must have had the best views in nature at the time.
Beyond the lookout, we could see many trails. A huge meadow stretched out ahead of us with the Lake Eleanor Trail cutting across it down the middle. Beyond that we could see the West Fork of the White River that is fed by the Winthrop Glacier. Further to the north we could barely see the white snowcaps of Mount Baker and its surrounding mountains.
As we left the lookout, we stopped to enjoy the many wildflowers along the way. Although we know that these are really weeds, they are pretty weeds.
Reflecting on the hike, it was a well graded with beautiful views. If you can find a way to come here without the people, then it would earn a five star rating. Otherwise, it is one that is worth doing at least once.
In all, Mount Rainier National Park as a lot of offer. If travelling here for the first time, do the "touristy" sights; as it is worth doing it at least once. Otherwise, on a return trip, take the back country to truly get-away from it all. Also, visiting when it is cooler, with ice, proper gear and the skills to use it, is probably a great alternative to the summer rush.
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