The ahupua'a of Wai'anae once stretched from the ends of Kaena Point to as far as Nanakuli. The present-day valley of Wai'anae lies in between the imposing mountain ranges of Wai'anae on the north, Kamaile'unu to it's west and Kauaopuu hills to it's east.
According to an old folklore story by the Hawaiian kumulipo (chant), it tells of an old lady who lived on top of a peak called Kawiwi, the highest point on Kamaileunu ridge. When she was hungry, she cried out to passing birds, who fed her. Because of the legend surrounding her, the mountain cliffs became known as Pali O Keawa'awa or Cliff of Bitterness. During times of war, kahuna (chiefs) declared the mountain Pu'uhonua or place of refuge.
By the 1800's, most of the native Hawaiians in this valley were decimated due to western contact. In 1878, the Wai'anae Sugar Company moved in to grow cane, and later on, coffee. Today, you can still find remnants of the plantation manager's home foundation, old irrigation ditches, and rock walls.
Not all of these curious finds are visible from the main path. One must venture a little off the beaten path to appreciate the historical secret sites.
Before the state took over and declared Wai'anae a forest reserve, much of the native forest was destroyed due to ranching. The old old Hawaiian trail called Kumaipo - which linked Makaha to Wai'anae valley via Kamaileunu ridge - still exists partially but most of it has been reclaimed by secondary growth. Behind the fluted cliffs of Wai'anae lay the highest point on all of Oahu, Mount Ka'ala or fragrant mountain, standing at 4025 feet high. It can be easily accessed via the Wai'anae Kai trail at the end of the Wai'anae Valley Road.
The Wai'anae volcano was one of the 3 main volcanoes that formed the island of Oahu, with the other two being Kaena and Ko'olau. The Wai'anae volcano formed at around 3.9 million years ago. Hence, the Wai'anae range is more eroded and more 'settled' than it's sibling, the Ko'olau. The Wai'anae range is also much drier than its counterpart, as it lies in the rain shadow or in the lee of the island.
By the time the prevailing Kona wind brings the warm moist air towards the Ko'olau range, condensation and precipitation occurs on the northeast side of Oahu. The now drier wind then crosses over the Ko'olau and into the Ewa plains, towards the Wai'anae side; creating a dry desert-like condition around the lower elevation of the Wai'anae range.
Almost every year there are wild fires that scorch the valley. It is flamed by the strong winds and dry grass in the area.
Juxtapose, the upper section of the Wai'anae valley is not as dry as one may think. Although much of the lower sections had to be irrigated due to lack of precipitation, most of the upper sections are quite wet and lush.
When the sugar cane industry was at its apex, owners built sophisticated irrigation system with automatic pumps to divert water to the lowland areas where their farms were.
After the state of Hawaii subdivided up much of the valley into reserve and homestead lands, the public had more access to more hunting and recreation land. Besides the Wai'anae Kai- Ka'ala and Kumaipo Loop trails, a member of a local hiking club created a third trail aptly named Wai'anae Water Works; which meanders through the old plantation sites, irrigation ditches, pipelines and tunnels of yesteryear.
Along this established route, there lay more side routes - some more precipitous and more arduous to negotiate than others - which lead to the top of the Wai'anae range.
Most of the trails can be accessed from the end of the long Wai'anae Valley Road, which becomes narrow - snaking its way to the furthest back of the valley. The end of this road is marked by a yellow gate with a rough patch of dirt in front of it designated as the limited parking area. You will see a public hunting sign with a map of the area. Walk past the yellow gate and follow the asphalt path.
From here, there are many offshoot trails along the way, depending on which trail you want to take. Over the years, Wai'anae Steve, a member of a local hiking club took it onto himself to maintain and color code a web of interconnected trails deep within the valley. For example, purple caps or markers for the Waianae-Ka'ala trail, yellow ones for the Waianae Ramble along the foothills, white ones for the Water-Walls-Water trail, white-red ones for the Kumaipo trail, orange caps for bail out points and etc.
Along one of the more popular offshoot trails is a section that leads to a grand lookout below a tall imposing section of the Wai'anae range. From here one is afforded a grand view of both Lualualei and Wai'anae valleys. There are additional lookout points along the Wai'anae valley wall; each providing incredible views of the valley below.
Another interesting fact about this valley is its diversity in fauna and flora; even though many are introduced.
The lower elevation grassland gives way to strawberry guava, then to macadamia nut trees. As one traverses higher in elevation, it becomes a mature forest with many fruit trees. This includes coffee from the old plantation days, Cempedak trees (same family of the bread fruit and jack fruit trees), and oddly sisal plants (agave) in the higher elevations.
As one ascends in elevation, the landscape changes giving way to the back wall of the valley with a lush forest filled native koa and ohia. Ultimately, one reaches the top of the Wai'anae range at Mount Ka'ala where the flat top mountain is a wet cloud forest and native bog. Here lies one of the most diverse native ecosystems on Oahu; a treasure trove for botanists and enthusiasts.
Although, conservation is high in the minds of the communities in Hawaii, it manifests itself in many ways. Conservationists would look to preserve the natural lands with preserved forests and wild-life. Yet there is a new conservationist movement at hand that replaces the natural with technology used to harvest nature's power. Such modern technological change is converting former plantations into solar farms.
Wai'anae is one of the few places on Oahu that still retains its old Hawaiian charm. It provides for a more laid back adventure with a surprising amount of diversity in just one valley.
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