The ahupua'a of Moanalua valley encompasses from what is today the Honolulu International airport, Salt Lake City, Moanalua Gardens, and the entire valley of Moanalua all the way to the back walls of the Koolau range. Samuel Damon, a close friend and business partner of Charles Bishop, husband of Bernice Pauahi Paki, a royalty, was the last sole owner of the valley after he inherited it from Bernice. Today, only part of the estate, the Moanalua Gardens where the old summer home of King Kamehameha V is situated, is in the hands of the great-grandson of Damon. The rest were developed into housing, commercial lands and state park. The state of Hawaii owns 3,716 acres of it, and it hopes to protect the endangered birds and other species living in the heavily forested valley and uplands.
The biggest threat to the valley was the plan to build a highway through it, to connect the city of Honolulu to the windward side of Oahu. With quick thinking from the Damon heirs and the people of Hawaii, support was garnered and protests were made against the building of the highway through the valley. In the end, the Trust For Public Land initiated the purchase of Moanalua Valley from Damon Estate by putting up $5.5 million, in which $3 million came from the state, $1. 3 million from U.S. Fish And Wildlife Service, and $900,000 from the Army; used to set the lands aside as a state park.
Moanalua Gardens is currently preserved by Damon's heirs and is open to the public. Here there are a number of historical buildings collected from the larger valley and now displayed on the grounds. This includes the 1850 summer home of King Kamehameha V and the example of a lo'i (taro patch). Although one cannot enter the home, it still gives one an experience of walking back in time to when the valley was verdant.
This garden also houses some of the largest Monkey Pod trees to be found on the island that are over a 100 years old. One of such trees is referred to as the "Hitachi Tree" as it is the shape of the company's official logo. Hitachi continues to provide sustainable funding for the up keep of the grounds and many Japanese tourists still visit till today.
From the Moanalua State Park entrance, the start of the official Kamana Nui Valley Trail which is maintained by Na Ala Hele takes one back in time to when the Damon Estate once flourished. Part of the original cobbled stone road can still be seen, interspersed by stone bridges built in the heydays. As I am writing this article, portions of the old road has been repaved with cement to mitigate erosion and water runoffs. As one meanders through the interpretive pathway, there are signs (that used to be numbered by its individual guide post) telling the story of its surrounding feature.
There is also a Hawaiian petroglyph rock, or pohakukaluahine, which translates to "Stone Of The Old Woman". On this rock alone, you can count up to 22 figurines carved into it albeit extremely eroded away. There are also a series of dots, 90 of them, from an old Polynesian game called Konani.
At about 2.5 miles into the valley, there is another official trail called Kulana'ahane, which is part of the Na La Hele state trail system. It is 2.75 miles one way, and crosses the Moanalua stream many times. The Kulana'ahane trail was once an old Hawaiian trail used by bird catchers to collect the prized feathers of the elepaio.
Besides a water gaging station, one will come across many hau tangles, mixed forests, and perhaps some parts of an old aircraft that crashed in here some time ago.
At the back of the valley, there is an ephemeral waterfall. It is not always flowing and therefore, the path to is is often overgrown and difficult to navigate. When it does flow, it is a beautiful fall with a small ocular water base fit for a sprinkle.
The last section of the trail requires a steep ascend through thick uluhe, or ferns before reaching a saddle with views into Haiku valley and Kaneohe Bay. From this cliffhanger spot, one will have a commanding view of the highly controversial H-3 freeway, which tunnels through the Koolau from Halawa valley instead of Moanalua valley. Its costs at a staggering $80 million dollars per mile; making it the costliest highway project ever.
Due to the complexity of the terrain and thick undergrowth, many people have gotten lost or disoriented in the valley. On February 27, 2015, a hiker from Hawaii named Daylenn Pua left for Moanulua Valley wanting to climb to the infamous Haiku Stairs. He was never heard from since. A big rescue group involving Forward Looking Infra Red equipped helicopters swept up and down the valley and the surrounding ridges but to no avail.
Due to the illegality of hiking up the Haiku Stairs from Haiku valley, many hikers had found an alternative though longer access route through Moanalua valley's 'middle ridge'. The middle ridge is steep and often shrouded in mist, not to mention the thick Koolau mud and sheer drops along the way.
The highest point on the Koolau behind Moanalua valley is called Pu'u Keahi-a-kahoe, or literally Hill of Kahoe's fire. The legend behind this peak concerns the two brothers, Kahoe and Pahu. Kahoe is generous, always full of Aloha. Pahu, on the other hand, is stinge and never shares his great catch with his brother. When famine struck the lowlands where Pahu resided, he saw smoke coming from the top of the mountain where Kahoe was. He knew Kahoe was cooking up some food but as he felt guilty all this while for not sharing his best catch, he could only stare at the white smoke coming from the top. Hence, the explanation for the low clouds that look like smoke always shrouding over the peak.
Once on the stairs, it is often shrouded with clouds, making visibility almost zero. But when the clouds clear, one is rewarded with the expansive views of the windward side.
From the wet valley floor of Moanalua to it's uplands where it terminates on the misty Koolau, one can truly experience the majestic valleys and fluted cliffs carved by nature since its birth from ancient volcanic activities. Take a walk on the wild side and relived the past histories of the valley.
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