Long before western contact, Hawaiians used Laie as a city of refuge or pu'u honua. It is bordered by Kahawainui and Wailele stream, forming a large fertile delta of Laie Bay. The name Laie is said to have been derived from two Hawaiian words - lau meaning leaf and ie'ie, a type of screw pine which grows in abundance near the summit of the Koolau. Today, the town of Laie is predominantly made up of the Mormon Church, it's Brigham-Young University campus, and the famous Polynesian Cultural Center on the makai or ocean side; while farming and verdant trails explore the mauka or mountain side.
It was a clear day over the north and west side of Oahu, so we decided to make the long hike up to the Koolau summit from Laie. The total round trip would be around 12 miles, so we started out early in the morning. The first section of the trail leading to the actual trailhead is not exactly welcoming for hikers, as you cross farmland and about 3 miles of dirt road (ideal for mountain bikers).
Once past the farm land, a yellow gate marks the start of the forest reserve which in 2018 is run by the Hawaii Forest Reserve. Laie trail was originally called Wailele trail because the original route planned in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corp traversed the neighboring ridge sandwiched between Wailele stream and Ihi'ihi gulch. The route was later altered to the present ridge, and after 1946 it was then called Laie trail.
The first lower section of the trail is the original dirt road traversing iron wood and open grass land. Today the wide four wheel drive track is used mostly by mountain bikers with its many off shoot biking trails to whoop-de-doos and jumps. Many bikers consider this area a biking haven; given that there aren't very many places on Oahu to experience this type of biking in the first place.
The original trailhead actually begins at the stately Cook Pines further up hill.
From here the trail is shaded and it affords the visitor many great views of Kahawainui and Ihi'ihi gulches. One will also get the great impression of the many rolling hills that tend to make up this side of the Ko'olaus.
We made good time to the waterfall split, passing groves of invasive strawberry guava along the way. Here there is a sign that marks the off-shoot trail down into Kahawainui gulch to Laie waterfalls and pools.
Taking the trail down to the falls, affords a quick stop for a cool dip in the base pool of a twin fall. Given ample time, one could venture along Kahawainui to visit some 18 falls along its stream; ranging from thirty to forty foot falls to much smaller five foot dips.
Returning to the ridge trail, it is beyond this point that the trail becomes narrower and not as well maintained. Here we began the slow ascend to the top. The trail here is an open contour that flips from the left to the right side of the ridge affording views towards Ihi'ihi and then towards Kahawainui. It was somewhat overgrown, but still somewhat visible from a distance. We carefully trekked on as even though it was a fairly dry day, the trail still had quite a bit of mud along the way. One of the many features of the trail is the 60 foot cliff height above the trail in the section just before the saddle that then wraps the contour from the left to the right.
Be on the look out for three visible trenches along the side of the trail - once used to stuff dynamite in a plan to blow up the trails should the Japanese invade during WWII. The dynamite filled trenches were located at either side of the narrow saddle where the trail crossed the ridge from left to right and on the mauka end of the 60 foot cliff.
As we approached the summit, there was a clear distinction in the vegetation as we started to see cloud forests and loulu palms in the distance. The ground was soggy, muddy and wet, and the clear line of a contour trail disappear into a chaotic mix of vegetation obscuring the view of the trail. It is this section towards the top of the Ko`olau that the ridges meet at a more flatten and almost boggish flat.
We could imagine how easily one could get lost if one strayed from the already feint trail.
Beyond the moss laden trees, there were also many low lying ohia lehua and of course its own namesake the creeping ie'ie or screw pine. They remain low with no tall versions towards the summit, as the cross winds here can be howling and strong. In all, this would probably be a botanist's paradise for native plants.
Once we arrived at the top of the summit, the views were incredible. Full 360 degrees of unobstructed views of the Waianae mountain range - from the Leeward side all the way past Dillingham to Kaena point.
Expansive views of the north shore all the way east through Punaluu.
One also gets the view of how confusing the Koolau summit can be in this section as there is no clear edge to traverse. The terminus of the ridge trail to the Koolau Summit Trail is a confusing set of paths that intersects each other at the top. Here signs help in sorting out which way is what. Look for the green Laie sign that marks the Laie Trail terminus, and the black - now partially broken - Koolau Summit and Pupukea Trail signs. At the top there are also two foxholes. Great for a tent if planning to camp on the Koolau Summit Trail.
Laie Trail is a walk into the past. It has a great variety and its name-place serves as a great reminder to conserve the local Hawaiian endemic plants. By virtue of its difficulty to get to the top, it allows for the natives in this area to thrive.
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