Of the 7 populated islands of the Hawaiian chain, Hawai'i better known as the Big Island, is the largest. It's geological birth is primarily made up of 5 main volcanoes - Kohala, Hualalai, Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa and Kilau‘ea - arranged chronologically from oldest to the youngest. Lo'ihi, the growing formation that has yet to break the surface as an island, currently sits on top of the hot spot on the southeastern point on the chain.
Landing at Kailua-Kona's Keahole Airport (also known as the Ellison Onizuka International Airport), one can't help but noticed the massive lava flow of Hualalai's northwest rift zone from the 1800's. The surrounding land, including where the airport is built upon, is made up of this massive flow which added about 15 miles of coastline. As one gazes up towards the slopes of Hualalai, one can see numerous cinder cones dotting it's northwestern face. As you leave the vicinity of the airport travelling towards the highway, the scenery is bleak and all one will see for miles are basaltic lava flows of pa'hoe'hoe (smooth lava) and a'a (rough lava). There are small pockets of sparse vegetation or kipuka which consists of mostly hala (pandanus) or coconut trees. For the most part, it is completely barren. As for any first timers to the islands, welcome to your first lesson in volcanic geology!
Highway 11 is the main thoroughfare that connects Kailua-Kona, the second largest city in Hawai'i after Hilo, to Kealakakua Bay. But before we get to the main point of interest where Captain Cook met his demise, we will be making a number of stops along the way.
Kailua-Kona
Due to its location on the lee side of the island, Kailua-Kona doesn't get much rainfall. This area is classified as dry semi-arid or steppe to desert-like conditions under the Koppen climate system. With that in mind, it is one of the best places for world-class resorts and golf courses that line its coastline. The weather is always warm and sunny! So much so that it has become the magnet location for many world class events like the annual Ironman. The land here is gently sloped, and with its rich volcanic lava soil and with the protection from the flanks of Hualalai and Mauna Loa from harsh weather, it is a perfect place to grow coffee.
Keauhou
On the ocean side south of Kailua-Kona, was once the heart of the Hawaiian Kingdom called Keauhou. This is where the ali'i or royalty lived. As the seat of Hawaii it is a place of many wahi pana or sacred places. Here the coast line was dotted with many heiau or temples. Each temple having a specific function and is presided over by a priest. These were built to worship the Hawaiian Gods like Ku (god of war) or Lono (god of fertility, agriculture, music and rain). Of the many deteriorating heiau in the area, there are two that have been restored in 2007 by Kamehameha Schools, as part of an act of reconciliation to the Hawaiian people for building a commercial hotel on this very sacred land once the home to Kamehameha and the ali'i (royalty). What would have taken ancient Hawaiians at least a decade to build took two historians four months with the help of modern machinery.
Unfortunately, through modernization, and neglect, many of these sites lay in ruin; as the old Hawaiian artifacts were cleared to make way for the many resorts that now line the coast. Today with the Hawaiian cultural renaissance, and through land stewards like Kamehameha School, these wrongs are being corrected. Now the old hotels give way to the return of the heiau.
Lekeleke Bay
Continuing south on Highway 11 takes one to the next destination called Lekeleke. It is easy to miss this point of interest as it is only marked by a small monument rock by the side of the road. Behind it, lays what looks like an ordinary barren field of lava against the ocean. But look closer at the hillside and one will see that there are many faint terraces - a sign of Hawaiian lo'i (taro fields).
This place is significant because it is where there was a great battle between the diminishing old guard against the emerging modern belief system amongst the Hawaiians. The old guard wanted to retain the Kapu or taboo system, while Christianity was growing in strength. Today this spot is frequented by many local cliff divers and it is fondly known as the End of the World. In some ways, the colloquial name is indicative of the end of the old Hawaiian belief system.
Painted Church
Taking a slight detour off Highway 11 to 160 and then onto Middle Keei Road, one will be rewarded with a visit to the very quaint Saint Benedict Catholic Church or more commonly known as the Painted Church. Although there are many similar quaint churches in the area, this one is especially unique for its interior is completely covered with colorful frescoes depicting biblical events.
Kealakekua Bay
Back track to Napo'opo'o Road and the drive down to Kealakekua Bay is a steep one. There is a trail that takes one directly down into the bay. The narrow serpentine road snakes down into the bay, passing many kiawe and haole koa trees. At the end of this road, you will come to a cul-de-sac marking the end point at Napo'opo'o pier. From here, you have a good view of the pali (cliff) where you just came from, looming high above. Imagine hiking back out if you did this on foot...
Kealakekua when translated to English means:
Ke - the
Ala - path
Kekua - god
Culturally, the mountains were always reserved for the Gods and therefore, when standing at the bay looking up the flank of Mauna Loa, one can understand why the Hawaiians called this place the path to god.
At the bay, the structure immediately next to the parking lot is Hikiau heiau.
Similarly to all other heiaus like those at Keauhou, they are build to serve a particular purpose; for example, to ensure a safe voyage, for fertility, or to ensure success in warfare. However, this particular heiau is a bit strange. It actually has nothing to do with Hawaiian culture. At the front of this heiau is an obelisk with a bronze plate that reads:
In this heiau, January 28,1779,
Captain James Cook, R.N.
read the English burial service
over William Whatman, seaman,
the first recorded Christian service
in the Hawaiian Islands.
Contrary to what a heiau is suppose to signify, this one is completely outright bizarre, and so unHawaiian. To understand the deeper significance of this, we need to revisit the fateful day when Cook sailed into Kealakekua Bay on January 1779. It was a rather peculiar event. In his previous encounters with other Polynesian groups, he has never been welcomed with such great honor and fanfare; greeted by such a great number of people. He estimated them to be in the thousands. In fact, it was a festive welcomed instead of a tense and somber one. Here's the explanation as to why. The Hawaiians celebrate their new year, the makahiki, at around this time of the year. It signifies the return of one of their gods, Lono, a god of peace and fertility. The Hawaiians would form a long procession, carrying a crosspiece draped in white cloth. By sheer happenstance, the similarity of Cook's tall ship masts draped in white sails had the Hawaiians mistaking him for Lono himself(?) What other explanation could there be? In the next two weeks while moored in the bay, one of Cook's shipmates - Whitman, died. He was interred in the heiau with both Hawaiian and Christian burial rights. Three days later, Cook sailed out of the bay and that should be the end of the story. Unfortunately, the weather turned bad and one of the ship's mast broke. He returned back to the bay to seek help and repair. Thereafter, due to an unfortunate string of events, the reigning Chief of Hawai'i decried that Cook was not the real Lono and that he had "amused them with lies". The festive mood turned into anger and mistrust. Skirmishes and fracas broke out among the sailor and the Hawaiians. Some of Cook's men reportedly accused the Hawaiian workers that came aboard to help with the broken mast, of thieving. On the third day, during one of these arguments, Cook was killed. This was the turning point in Hawaiian history; marked by the death of a prominent western figure. The old ways were done for, only to be replaced by a new Christian god.
